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Aechmea
I tried to make my Aechmea rebloom by placing an apple in the pot and covering it with plastic wrap. My original bloom died and there are three new shoots in the pot but the apple turned to mush and there are still no flowers. Is this method a hoax?
No, the shoots of your Aechmea fasciata, an epiphytic bromeliad from Brazil, are too young to bloom. Once the original, or mother, plant has finished blooming, new shoots called offsets are produced, which is what you have. These offsets, called daughters, grow to almost the size of the mother and they can be planted into individual pots. You have to make sure to get all the roots that are attached to them. The new plants will take two to three years before they are ready to start producing flowers.
Does the apple work? I have no idea.
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African Violets
My African violets that I bought last spring have yellow spots on the leaves. My neighbor said this is caused by moving them to a sunny window. Where am I supposed to put them?
Put them in a north or an east window. As for the yellow spots, that is called ring spot, or chlorosis. It is caused by suddenly chilling the leaves with cold water or by sunlight falling on wet leaves.

Water your African violets from the bottom or use a watering container that has a long skinny spout so water does not get onto the leaves. Also, use water that is tepid, not cold. Some people prefer to set the pots in tepid water and let the soil soak up what is needed, and then they place the pots on a gravel base for good drainage. If the water is not able to drain it will accumulate in the soil and cause the crowns to rot.

Keep your violets in a draft-free area that doesn't drop below 55 to 60 degrees at night. During the day, they are very happy with air temperatures in the 80s. If your north windows get chilly at night, place some form of insulation between the window and the plants - like a folded newspaper or some bubble pack.
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Amaryllis
I just bought an amaryllis bulb and there are no instructions with it. Can you help me?
Examine that bulb and if you see any mold or soft spots return it for another. Select a container that is about an inch larger than the base of the bulb, place something over the drainage holes so the soil doesn't leak out, and fill it with a mixture of one part perlite and two parts potting soil. A small amount of a slow release fertilizer can be mixed in if not already in the potting mix.

Position the bulb so that only the bottom third is in the soil - this is the enlarged end that has the roots. Water thoroughly and put the container in a cool but sunny room - temperature between 55 and 65 degrees is best - to start the roots growing. Water only if you can insert a finger into the mix and it comes up dry (excess water can rot the bulb). Monitor this carefully, because it will dry out much faster as the plant grows. In about six weeks, a flower bud will begin to emerge (the bud usually emerges before the foliage). Once growth has started, turn the pot daily for equal sun exposure. As the stalk gets taller it may have to be staked. When it starts to bloom, keep the plant out of direct sunlight and the temperature even cooler.

After the bloom has ended, cut off the flower stalk but not the foliage. Place the plant on a sunny windowsill and water when it is dry. The continued foliage growth is necessary for next years bloom. Around the end of May, take the plant out of the container, place it in a sunny location in your garden, and keep it watered and fertilized. In fall, before the first frost, dig up the bulb but let the foliage die back on its own. The bulb is now ready to a rest in a cool area, 40 to 45 degrees for about 15 weeks. After this, start the whole process over again.
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Aphids
My bay tree has aphids all over it. I have tried rubbing alcohol and another spray but they are still there. This tree is inside my dining room. Help!
Try insecticidal soap. There are some good household/plant sprays available but insecticidal soap is the safest and it is very effective if used repeatedly. You can also turn the tree on its side in the shower and wash off the aphids with a blast of water. If you have a flexible shower this will be easy. Be careful what you are using, especially if you utilize the leaves. You will need to keep at them until they are gone. Check any other plants you may have inside or ones you recently brought in. Those aphids had to come from somewhere!
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Asparagus Fern
I’m having problems with an asparagus fern. The long foliage keeps turning brown despite the fact that it gets water on a regular basis. 
The brown or tan foliage is from being too dry or being in low light. Asparagus fern (Asparagus densiflorus) has a massive root system that fills the pots very quickly. When this happens, watering from the top isn’t sufficient as the water passes right around the roots and runs off. Set the entire pot in a sink full of water until the top of the potting medium is damp. You could also keep moving the plant into larger pots or you can also trim back the longer growth to make the plant bushier. 

My four-year-old asparagus fern has a few brown stems that make a mess when they drop. Is this an indication that it is dying?
Not necessarily. The needles turn a yellow-brown and drop off if the plant isn't happy about something…perhaps too much or too little water, achange in light, or a sudden draft. It could also indicate that the plant needs to be repotted. If you haven't done so, a plant of this age will need to be refurbished. The massive root system fills up all the space in the pot, snuffs out new growth and makes watering impossible. The water doesn't get into the middle but runs around the root ball and out so try soaking the pot in a sink full of water or repot the plant. Pull or pry the roots apart and plant pieces into new containers; placing the existing rootball into a larger pot will not cure the problem.

Asparagus fern is not fern at all, it is a subtropical relative of asparagus. The needles are modified stems and the real leaves are those prickly scales along the stems - the ones that stick into your fingers like small rose thorns! The roots are thick and often lay along the surface of the growing medium. This plant likes good light and average temperature and humidity. Let it dry out between watering.
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Bacteria on Houseplants
I hear a lot about all of the bacteria on houseplants. Why are there so many?
There may be as many as 200 bacteria that can cause disease on the foliage of plants, and each one can multiply by dividing in half from about every half hour to several hours. Some bacteria can produce millions of offspring in a day's time! Although the presence of bacteria on leaf surfaces is quite normal, they will only cause problems when conditions are in their favor - crowding, high humidity, and poor air circulation. Bacteria cannot penetrate the leaf surface to get into plant tissue; they can only get in through a cut or through the stomata (pores in the underside of the leaf).

When plants are not taken care of properly and are, therefore, stressed, they become susceptible to infections. Watering too little, too much, or on an irregular schedule is one of the biggest stress factors. Winter also adds to stressful conditions due to low light intensity and fluctuation in temperatures. Anther factor that aids bacterial infections is stress caused by improper potting and incorrect nutrient levels.
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Birdcatcher Tree
My birdcatcher tree is dropping leaves all of a sudden and I can’t find any insects on it.
Birdcatcher tree (Pisonia umbellifera) will have a problem with leaves dying if the temperature is too cool and/or the air is too dry. If you have an air conditioner running, you will not only to reduce the humidity the plant needs but it creates cold drafts.  Try moving the plant away from the air conditioner or protecting it with some sort of screen and placing the pot on a tray of pebbles that is filled with water to give it more moisture.
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Blood Lily
I was given a bulb called blood flower. It is in dry soil and I was also told not to water it until spring and to keep it cool. The person who gave this to me has moved away and I have no idea what to do with it. Can you help?
I think you may have a blood lily (Scadoxus multiflorus ssp. katherinae). It has a variety of common names, including Catherine wheel and blood flower. This is an evergreen perennial with a spectacular red flowerhead that is a huge spherical umbel consisting of up to 200 flowers. There is also a white variety available that blooms in the winter. 

The bulb for indoor planting is tender and must remain dormant in the soil, in a cool, almost cold, and dark location throughout the winter. Toward the end of March, bring it slowly into a warmer area with bright light and water. Keep it evenly moist and the humidity high, and feed with an all purpose fertilizer. This plant blooms best when pot bound so don’t repot it.

Once growing it will send up wide lance shaped stemless leaves that arch and cup, like a spoon. Soon a thick, leafless flower stalk will appear that often has maroon spots on it. As the tip forms, a very large ball of bright red flowers with long scarlet stamens will dominate the plant. It resembles a large powder puff. Blooms fade but leaves remain until the plant enters winter dormancy.

The plant can be placed outside in a slightly shaded location during warm weather but you should bring it in well before first frost. Don’t let it dry out until the leaves turn yellow and drop.
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Calamondin Orange
I just received a beautiful citrus tree, calamondin orange – and it’s in a great container. What is the best way to care for it?
Calamondin orange (Citrofortunella microcarpa) is one of the most fragrant houseplants available. If it gets at least one half day of direct sun it might bloom for you at least twice a year and have lots of tiny pungent oranges on it. Pollination is the key; you have to brush all the stamens with a soft paintbrush. Keep the humidity at about 50 percent, the temperature at about 65 degrees F, and the soil moist but not soggy (should feel just like a damp sponge) to keep this aromatic plant happy. Calamondin has very shallow roots so it is happier in a wide pot instead of a deep one. These plants benefit from a misting to reduce possibilities of spider mites or other pest attacking them. To keep the humidity up put a saucer filled with pebbles and water beneath the pot.
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Cathedral Windows
I was just given a plant called cathedral windows. Help!
You received a Calthea mackoyana, also called the cathedral windows or peacock plant. Cathedral windows got its name from the colorful, translucent leaves that resemble stained glass windows in a cathedral. The leaves are reddish beneath with patterns in silver and shades of green on top. The appearance reminds me of frost patterns on a windowpane.

This plant has a tuberous root that stores water, so water sparingly; during winter months, let the potting mix dry up a bit more as the plant needs a dormant period. Excess water will rot the rots, so keep the potting soil evenly moist from bottom watering. It needs medium light and high humidity; dry air will cause leaf dieback, so keep the pot on a pebble-filled saucer full of water. From March to August feed it a weak, all-purpose fertilizer. Flowering is not encouraged; pinch off flowers to get more leaves.
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Chirita
I just received a Chirita plant for my birthday but other than saying the flowers were purple there are no directions for care. My plant book doesn’t list this plant either. Can you tell me how to care for it?
Chirita is a relative of the African violet which it sometimes resembles. Chirita sinensis is the scientific name. The leaves grow in whorls, forming a rosette, and appear to be succulent – they are thicker and glossier than those of the African violet. The beauty of these leaves is the silver veins, although there are some varieties with dark green veins. The flowers are lavender with orange throats and appear on upright stems. The plant only reaches 6 inches in height but it will spread out a foot or more.

These plants can be difficult to bring to bloom but getting them to flower is the fun. The blooms take forever to appear and if the light is low or the temperature too high, don’t expect any. Give the plant cool growing conditions and bright light. Let the soil dry slightly between watering and keep humidity at about 50 per cent. Don’t let the leaves get wet. Also, Chirita needs a fertilizer rich in phosphorous. To propagate, take leaf cuttings or use offsets or seeds.
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Christmas Cactus
Why is my Christmas cactus blooming at Halloween?
They'll do that! Does your cactus have leaf segments with sharp points that resemble a crustacean claw? If so, you have a Thanksgiving cactus (Zygocactus truncate) that will bloom earlier due to light and temperature changes. The Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesil) has smooth leaf segments. Hybridization of these plants has led to bloom times ranging from October to January.

Enjoy your cactus, as it will bloom for quite some time if you don't move it to another location. Most of us have great luck in north and east windows and a cool temperature setting. Heat will make the buds abort and too much light will cause yellowing of the leaves. So, filter the light and keep the temperature around 60 to 65 degrees. Once it stops blooming, you can start feeding it once a month. Use a low-nitrogen (nitrogen is the first number of the three-number formulation) plant food that has been diluted.

How do you propagate Christmas cactus and when do you do it?
Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) is one of the easiest plants to propagate. Just pinch off a few sections of a stem with your fingers and root them in vermiculite. The bottom section should be almost buried as the top piece will produce new growth. Once new growth has started, pot them up in regular houseplant growing medium. Once potted, feed them a weak (about one-third strength) plant food.

I have a wonderful Christmas Cactus that has bloomed beautifully. Now it has thin roots (?) growing from the joints of several leaves and I’m wondering what this means.
Yes, they are roots. Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) is actually an epiphyte, not a desert cactus. Literally, it is a tree perching plant, and it is native to the jungles of Brazil. What you are seeing are aerial roots that are used for collection of moisture from the atmosphere. Eventually, these will dry up into thin brown threads. When they appear it is a sign that the plant is doing well. Don’t water as much once the blooming has stopped to give the plant a chance to rest. Christmas castuses like going outside in a semi-shaded area during the summer, but they are just as content in a bright window. 
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Clivia
The tips of my clivia are turning brown and I was told it’s from our water. Is this true?
Yes and no. The ends of Clivia leaves and other narrow leaved house plants, like spider plant, often turn brown and dry up from salt damage. This salt is from plant foods or fertilizers and sometimes from fluoride and chloride in municipal water supplies. These chemicals, in the form of soluble salts, accumulate in the leaf tips and shut out all nutrients, causing the leaf tip to brown and shrivel. Repot your plant in a clean or new pot with fresh medium; use bottled water and see if the problem abates.
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My clivia is blooming like crazy but the flowers are buried by the foliage instead of getting tall.  How do I fix this problem?
Clivias need a cooling or dormant period in order to bloom properly. After it finishes blooming the plant needs to rest for about eight to ten weeks in a cool room with temperatures around 50 degrees F at night and 60 degrees F during the day. When the flower stalks fail to get tall, this is a sign of stress from lack of rest. There is still disagreement as to how or whether to water during this time. From personal experience, I can tell you that there is no harm in watering, although not heavily, so it doesn’t dry out completely.
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Dieffenbachia
I know that Dieffenbachia plants are toxic if the leaves or stems are eaten or chewed but what about the moisture dripping from the leaves?
Dieffenbachia contains calcium oxalate crystals. This ‘poison’ causes swelling of the throat and mouth leading to speech impediment for mild cases and to suffocation in extreme cases. The common name, dumb cane, comes from causing inability to speak. If the poison gets into the eyes, it will cause intense pain and swelling.  People who have sensitive skin need to wear gloves when working around this plant.  Wet foliage on these plants can result in skin disorders. Interestingly, since the sap of this plant has such a terrible odor, there haven’t been that many occurrences of pets or toddlers being poisoned.
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Dracaena
I have a Dracaena plant that has been sitting in my utility room all summer. It got spider mites which I blasted off with water about every other day and I have not seen any for a couple of weeks. But now the plant smells like rotten apples and I can’t find any insects with my magnifying glass. Help!
The answer is the your plant probably has root rot. You may have sprayed away the spider mites but all that water wasted the roots. Unpot the plant and check the roots. If most of the roots look okay, cut away any mushy sections and repot in clean growing medium. Also, the plant may not have been getting enough light and this aggravated the condition; let it dry out between waterings and increase the lighting. You may want to trim the plant back a bit to force new tufts of leaves to develop.
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Dust-covered Leaves
We are doing some renovation to our home and plaster dust has covered my houseplants.  Will the chemicals in this dust hurt them? I tried washing some off and the leaves turned brown.
When leaves are coated with dust or dirt the amount of light the plant receives is reduced or blocked. Try using a hair dyer on a cool, gentle setting to blow away the dust. This may not work on delicate plants so for these take a small paintbrush to clean the leaves. After this try gently blowing away remaining residue and then wash with a gentle spray until all the leaves are clean.
The gypsum in the dust is a fertilizer and like all fertilizers it will burn leaves.
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Fungus Gnats
I have little flies living in the soil of my house plants, how do I get rid of them.
Oh, those miserable fungus gnats. It is the sciarid fly, which is often called the mushroom fly and resembles the fruit fly. They really don't do much damage to plants but they are very annoying to us plant owners. They lay their eggs in the potting mixture and the larvae feed on dead matter, including decaying roots. This can sometimes affect the roots of seedlings but rarely damages mature plants. Fungus gnats are partial to peat and peat-based potting mediums.

If you soak your potted plant in a solution of insecticidal soap for a half hour or more then let it drain until the soil is almost dry this should cut back, if not eliminate, the problem. If the infestation is very severe, you may have to use an insecticidal treatment that is suitable for use on houseplants, specifically for the particular plant you have; treat a dry medium for maximum results. Repotting the plant is not an option as some of this pest will survive the transplant by hiding in the middle of the root system.
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Ginger Root
I bought some ginger root and it started to sprout. Can I use this for a houseplant?
Yes, you can. Your tuber will probably sprout in a couple of places. Set the tuber in shallow water until you see roots forming at the base of the new growth. Don’t sever this from the main tuber but plant the entire unit. The temperature has to be about 75 degrees F to accomplish this, so place the soaking tuber where it can be kept warm. Get a good size pot, about a foot or more across, with excellent drainage.

Ginger (Zingiber officinale) likes damp, but not wet, sites. The best medium for the pot is a mix of compost and potting soil. Set the pot in an area of low light out of any drafts (ginger grows in the shade or dappled sun in a natural habitat and dislikes breezes). Water lightly and let the soil dry when growth stops during the dormant period; if planted in spring, dormancy will be in winter. Ginger will also stop growing if the temperature drops below 55 degrees F. You may be lucky and see it flower; the blossoms are very unusual, resembling miniature pink pineapples.
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Guttation
My houseplants are dripping water from the leaves. What causes this?
Your plants are taking in more water than they can use. This causes the leaves to excrete drops of water in the form of sap from the tips and undersides of the leaves. Sometimes this secretion may blacken or look translucent as the liquid dries. Another name for this phenomenon is guttation.

Reduce the amount of water you are giving the plants and increase the amount of light. This excess light forces the plants to utilize water. Increasing air circulation and lowering humidity will help in controlling guttation. Certain houseplants, such as dieffenbachia, are known for dripping water and this can be normal behavior.
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Gynura
I’m new to the area and received a welcome plant with purple fuzzy leaves and the only name on the tag was Gynura. Gardening is not really my thing, so can you help me?
You were given a purple passion plant, also called purple velvet leaf, whose botanical name is Gynura aurantiaca. Your new houseplant needs to be placed in a brightly lit area away from the sun to keep those leaves purple. The plant will be thick and bushy if it likes it’s location, otherwise it will look stringy. It will tolerate cooler temperatures (55 to 60 degrees F) and average humidity (about 50 percent). Keep it evenly moist and reduce the water during the winter. Feed it only once a month from April through August according to the directions on whatever product you choose. It’s best to reduce the amount by half to avoid excess salts in the soil. Pinch out the stem tips once a month – this keeps the plant bushy and you can start more plants from these cuttings. Just place the cuttings in water until you see roots appear, then pot them up.
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Heart Vine
I am taking care of someone else’s house plants and most are doing very well, but there is one called heart vine that is growing round balls on the stems where the leaves come out. I don’t want it to die while in my care so what can I do?
Heart vine (Ceropegia woodii), is also called String of Hearts and Rosary Vine.  What you are seeing are rosary vine ‘beads’.  These are small tubers that form along the vine at the base of leaves.  If you fill another pot with growing medium and press this tuber into the soil while still attached to the main plant and keep it moist, it will root. Once it has sent up new growth, you can cut it away from ‘mama’ plant. This plant is very tolerant of neglect, happy with low humidity of our homes in the winter and doesn’t require being watered until the soil is dry.  Being pot bound makes it very happy.  During the summer it’s content to be hanging from a tree limb under dappled sunlight a little more water and a light feeding every month of half strength plant food.
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Heliotrope
I have a plant called Cherry Pie. Does it need a sunny window or will it be fine in a north exposure?
Assuming that you are talking about the heliotrope Heliotropium arborescens ‘Cherry Pie’, yes, it needs sun. Heliotrope is normally a bushy plant that is grown as an annual but is sold as a houseplant in some garden centers. It has purple flowers and hybrids are available with blue and white flowers. You can prune it as soon as the blooms fade. The foliage alone makes it worth keeping the plant going until next spring. Keep the soil evenly moist and the humidity high. Also, be careful as it is somewhat toxic and many people are allergic to the sap.
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Houseplant Care
All my houseplants are starting to look awful. They don’t seem to have any insects or disease. What’s going on?
The problem is heat. On fall, you probably put heat on in the house and outside the sun is lower in the sky so it comes through the windows at different levels. The sun may now be shining on plants that don’t care for this extra light/heat. Plants have to adjust to all of this. In addition, some plants are going into dormancy.

One thing you need to do is change the watering schedule. Not knowing what plants you have, I can’t say how they are going to behave. Perhaps some need new pots? You need to find out the growing requirements and growth habit of each of your plants and rearrange things accordingly.
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Houseplant Lighting
Why do my houseplants always lean to one side? Do they need staking or are they getting to big for the pots?
Your houseplants are seeking light. Are they leaning toward the window or toward a light?  If you put a light above them, they will grow straight up. Don’t stake them unless the plant is the type that needs this type of support. Rotate your plants daily to give all sides the same light advantage; one quarter turn is fine for large plants while small pots can be turned by one half. For foliage plants, an overhead fluorescent lamp will keep them growing evenly. Flowering plants need grow bulbs for the proper light spectrum.
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Houseplants That Don’t Bloom
I buy houseplants that are supposed to flower but never seem to. Why?
The three main reasons houseplants don’t bloomare; lack of light, not enough humidity, and wrong temperature. What do your plants require? Was there an information tag on your plants when you bought them? Research what is required for each one and adjust their location in your home to accommodate their needs. Perhaps the plants need a few years before blooming as not all plants flower every year. Overfeeding is still another cause for not blooming; it creates lots of foliage at the expense of flowers. Try a fertilizer with a high phosphorus (the middle number of the formulation) and don’t feed as often. Go over the plants very carefully for insects as well as hidden suckers could be sapping the plants vitality.
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Hydroculture for House Plants
What house plants are good for indoor hydroculture? 
Actually, quite a few. The most common are arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), philodendrons, and pothos. However, there are many more including: Bloodleaf (Iresine species), coleus, all varieties of Dracaena, dumb cane or ribbon plant (Dieffenbachia), Hawaiian Ti plant, (Cordyline terminalis), piggyback plant (Tolmiea menziesii), spiderworts, (Tradescantia), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), and umbrella plant (Schefflera actinophylla). You can always grow wandering Jew (Zebrinas) and bulbs (Convallaria, Crocus and Narcissus) using hydroculture techniques.
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Kalanchoe
I just received a kalanchoe. Can you tell me how to care for it?
It doesn’t take much to keep kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana) happy. Give it morning or afternoon sun - not hot, noontime sun - water when it feels dry, and keep it at an average temperature, that is, between 60 and 75 degrees F. It’s safer to underwater than overwater as too much water can cause roots to rot. Feed only when new growth is seen, and then only with a half strength fertilizer. The botanical name for these plants is Kalanchoe blossfeldiana and they are classified as succulents. Kalanchoe comes in many colors and will bloom for a long time.
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I have a kalanchoe that had lots of blooms last year but since then, nothing. How do I make it bloom again?
Put it in a dark location for 15 hours overnight for about four or five weeks. Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana) is a short day plant or, more correctly, a long night plant. Pick a cupboard or closet that won’t need to be opened from one afternoon until the following morning. Also, the dark location should stay between 50 to 65 degrees F, after that keep it between 60 and 70 degrees F. Most people take cuttings to get new plants with blooms. Let the cutting dry between watering and once the leaves start growing again, feed it every other week with a half strength solution.
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Living Stones
I have three different forms of living stones in my sunroom and lately there are white, dusty marks on them. These were gifts and I don't want to loose them. Is some type of fungus attacking them?
It is probably chalk marks from water getting onto them. Being in a sunroom, is there a possibility that water is dripping on them from condensation or from another plant? Living stones, or lithops, are a very delicate succulent that are often described as stemless. However, they do have stems but they are so short they can't be seen once the plant is potted. Living stones have to be kept dry for the entire winter and should not be watered at all until all the old leaves have dried up, which generally happens in late spring. Water them during the summer only and water only on sunny days, being careful to keep water off the 'stones'. Use a planting mix consisting of equal parts sharp sand and a loamy medium and don't repot them for at least three years. To assure blooms, get them into the full sun for summer and keep watering until late fall when they go into a winter resting period. The only pest that seems to bother them is the mealy bug.
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Mealy Bugs
I just brought my cactus inside and it has some type of white sticky stuff on it. My neighbor said it was scale and another said mealy bugs. Which is it?
It could be either. Mealy bugs, which look like white woodlice, are oval, about ¼-inch long, and wrap themselves in a sticky, white, wooly substance that repels water. Most scale are brown or yellow and usually stay in the tight crevices of plants. Like the mealy bugs, they are almost waterproof. Adult scale insects don't move around; the nymphs or crawlers are very active. The adult remains enclosed in a waxy cover that appears as a circular or oval, raised disc.

Both mealy bugs and scale suck sap from plants and excrete a sticky substance known as honeydew which can trap fungal spores and result in a sooty mold infection. Other than scraping them off with alcohol swaps, systemic pesticides are the best method for control. These are sold in the form of granules for use on houseplants but please, read the label and take all precautions if you have pets or small children when using these chemicals.
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Medicine Plant
My medicine plant has become tall and the leaves are falling over. Is this normal?
By medicine plant I assume you mean Aloe vera barbadensis. When the succulent leaves of this plant start getting tall and flopping it means that it isn't getting enough bright light. High humidity doesn't help either. This plant needs to be away from bathrooms or steamy kitchens but kept in the brightest light possible without being in sunlight coming through a window. Always allow the soil to dry out between watering. Aloe vera will rot very rapidly if the soil stays soggy. Is the plant in a terra cotta pot? Terra cotta is great for this plant as it dries out faster than other materials do. Also, use a cactus mix medium, not in regular potting soil.
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Ornamental Peppers
Are ornamental peppers easy to grow as a houseplant?
If you have plenty of bright light, you can grow them. They are simply small chili peppers with lots of tiny brightly colored fruits. The leaves are often dark purple. These peppers are very hot - hot enough to burn skin. If you purchase a plant already blooming or full of fruit, don’t expect it to survive as a houseplant. Find a young plant that can be acclimated to your house’s environment or start one from seed. During the summer, give the plant lots of sun outdoors. Indoors, mist it daily to spread pollen and help keep the moisture level high. It is very happy with an average temperature in a winter-heated house.
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Peace Lily
One of my peace lily plants is looking very sick. It seemed to be wilting so I gave it a lot of water and now it’s shriveling. Another one hasn’t bloomed since being divided into smaller plants. What is happening?
Peace lilies (Spathiphyllum wallisii) don’t like too much water and that is the problem. They do like to be kept moist during growing and bloom periods, but in between keep it on the dry side. As for the one that looks like it’s wilting, there may be other problems. Did you see any pests like spider mites or mealybugs on the stems and leaves?  Did the temperature get too low (65 degrees F is about as low as a peace lily can tolerate). Remember, they are tropical plants, Hawaiian actually, and they like bright light and moist but well drained soil. Peace lilies are not heavy feeders so just use an average, all purpose plant food while it’s growing and blooming. 
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Peanut Cactus
I just bought a cactus and it looks like someone stuffed a whole bunch into the pot. The only name on the tag is Chamaecereus.  Is there a better name and is it supposed to look like a bunch of prickly fingers?
What you have is Chamaecereus sylvestri; the common name is peanut cactus and yes, it does resemble a pot full of fingers. This plant needs full sun to survive, with temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees F. It should be kept cooler, 55 to 60 degrees F during the winter months when it is dormant. Also, the lower the humidity, the better it looks. Let the soil dry out between watering, especially during the winter. If you want more plants, pull off one of the fingers and stick it just on top of some damp soil. Keep the soil moist until it roots. About the only thing that will bother it is overwatering, causing root rot.
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Piggyback Plant
I just received a plant called Tolmeia menziesii. The leaves sprout from other leaves. Does it flower and does it have another name?
Tolmiea menziesii is the piggyback plant. Those are plantlets that sprout on top of the foliage. This causes the foliage to hang downward, making it a wonderful basket plant. The lobed leaves are sort of hairy, darker on the top than underneath, and resemble maple leaves. Yes, it does produce a stalk of tiny brownish-purple flowers that are not very showy. It likes bright light and a soil that is evenly moist - except in the winter when it requires less. Piggybacks also like cool to cold temperatures. Do not let your plant get into any drafts from open doors or windows or from heat blowing through ducts as this will cause the leaves to scorch. The piggyback is not a heavy feeder so an all purpose fertilizer is sufficient, and it will benefit from being repotted every year. To propagate, remove the plantlets and press them into some moist soil to root.
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Poinsettia
What can I do to keep my poinsettias until next holiday season?
Now, if you take very good care of your poinsettias, they may still be with you in late March or early April. If so, and you’re ready to get rid of them, you can just remove them from their pots and toss them onto the compost pile where they’ll return their nutrients to the earth. But if you’re patient and diligent, you can prepare your plants for reintroduction at next year’s holiday season.

In spring, cut your plants back to about 4 – 8” in height. Repot in slightly larger pots or shake all the old soil off and repot in the same pots using a commercial potting soil mix or a new soilless mixture. Place the plants in good light, but not hot sun, and continue your careful watering routine. After new growth appears, it’s time to fertilize with an all-purpose fertilizer made especially for flowering plants. After all danger of frost has passed, you can move your plants outdoors and place them in a lightly shaded location. Continue the watering and feeding according to the directions on the package.

In early July, pinch about an inch or so from the ends of the stems. Repeat this process in mid to late August, pinching the stems back until there are only three or four remaining leaves per stem.

As night temperatures begin to cool down in September, bring your plants inside and wash the leaves and stems carefully to remove stowaway insects. Continue your fertilizing and watering routine. Starting October 1 st, your plants must be kept in complete darkness for 14-15 continuous hours each night. That means keep them in a totally dark closet or cover them with a box for that period of time each night! No street lights or night lights allowed if you want a colorful display for the holidays. From about 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. each day, provide your plants with plenty of sunlight, but, without fail, keep them dark at night until the bracts turn color. Good luck! And if your “new” plants don’t look as good as you had hoped, remember that it’s quite difficult to get professional-looking results. So, that’s why the Master Gardener’s will have another poinsettia sale again next year!
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Potting Soil
Why does the soil my houseplants are growing in smell sour?
It’s worn out and needs to be replaced. The sour smell is an indication that your houseplants need to be repotted. The original growing medium is saturated with salts from constant feeding, the roots are filling up all the air spaces, and soon your plants will start to suffer if they haven’t already.
Start with new potting mix appropriate for your plants. Scrub the pots completely, getting rid of any residue buildup, then rinse them in a solution of bleach water. One tablespoon of bleach to a gallon will do. This will destroy any hidden pathogens and other pests. Also, your plants may need to go into a larger pot. Still, clean brand new pots the same way.
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Sapphire Flower
I just bought a pretty houseplant called sapphire flower from a reputable nursery. While I don’t see any insects, the leaves are sticky. My question is, is this normal or did the nursery spray it with some kind if insecticide…or am I missing something?
Browallia, or sapphire flower, is an annual flower. These shade plants make great container plants and window flowers. Sapphire flower does have somewhat sticky leaves and stems. In fact, small insects have been know to be trapped because of this. You can ask the nursery if they sprayed with something but even if they did, it would probably not leave a sticky residue.
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Schefflera
I was given a plant that looks like a Schefflera but has ten leaves instead of five or six and it is quite tall. I don’t know how to care for it and can’t seem I find information on the Internet.
You have Schefflera venusta ‘Starshine’ – the ten leaves gave it away. This is a rather new variety with the same dark green glassy leaves but they are a bit narrower than the other types. ‘Starshine’ likes temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees F, with light shade or medium light, and lots of feeding. Don’t let the entire pot dry out between waterings, but don’t overdo it either. The only problem it seems to have is attracting mealy bugs, so keep an eye out for these…and the sticky honeydew that goes with them. Hopefully yours will stay nice and healthy so you can enjoy it for years to come. 
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Selection of House Plants
How do you select a good houseplant?
The best way to find a house plant is by looking in greenhouses, garden centers, or nurseries that have a large selection. Pick the best looking of a variety that appeals to you and examine it carefully. You don’t want it if: (1) there are large areas between leaves since this indicates the plant is either over fertilized or crowded; (2) the leaves are yellow or overly small leaves for the size of the plant; (3) it is pot bound with the roots coming through the drainage holes; (4) it has insects or is sticky or has webs, mold, or any other sign of problems; leaves are cut away or drying; or (5) the plant has a sour smell and is in a cracked or distorted pots. The plant’s name and information about proper care should be available. Ask questions and if you are not satisfied with the answers go somewhere else. 
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Snake Plant
I was just given a snake plant that came from my grandmother's and I don't know what to do with it. Can you tell me about them?
The snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata) is a very tough plant - almost indestructible provided it's not overwatered. Contrary to the old Victorian habit of placing them in a dark corner, snake plants prefer a bright location. but not direct sun. Too little light will cause the leaves to flop over while bright light will make the plant produce a tall stalk of scented flowers. This plant produces erect leather-like leaves that have a pattern of dark and light coloration resembling snakeskin. Water it only when the soil becomes dry and a little less often during the winter months. Too much water will rot the roots. It's not a heavy feeder so use a very weak solution of plant food during the summer months. Let it completely fill up the pot before separating it; this plant is strong enough to break a clay pot when the time comes for dividing. Also, cuttings of leaf divisions root very easily.
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I heard someone on the Plant Pro talking about propagating a Mother in Law plant. Can you give me any information about this?
It is very easy to do. Take one long section (leaf) of the mother in law plant (Sansevieria trifasciata; also known as snake plant), lay it on a cutting surface, and cut it into 3- or 4-inch sections without picking it up. It is very important to keep tabs of the tops and bottoms of each section and you can do this by either making a slit where the top would be, cutting at a slant, or marking with a permanent marker.  If you wish, dip the bottom ends into some rooting hormone before inserting into some sterile medium. I use peat moss with perlite or vermiculite mixed 50/50 for potting. Some instructions say to cover with plastic until the cuttings take root but since Sansevieria doesn’t like humidity, you can skip this.  Place your cuttings someplace where there is average humidity and light. Don’t let them dry out and in due time you will see new plants emerging from the base of each cutting.  If a cutting shrivels up and doesn’t resist tugging, pull it out and toss it. Some may root within a couple of months but most take longer…just don’t give up on them.
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Spider Mites
Last year there were critters all over my spider plant and I was told they were spider mites. I ditched the plant and would like to have another one. Do all spider plants have spiders?
No. Spider mites are very tiny pests that thrive in dry, hot homes and you probably need to use a magnifying glass to see one. The very fine, silky webs they create on the underside of the leaves are the indication of their presence. Spider mites, specifically red spider mites, suck the sap from the leaves causing the leaves to become mottled and turn rusty. Sometimes, new growth is stunted and if it is bad enough, the leaves will fall off. The good news is that spider mites hate moisture! A good blast of water will do the trick and a regular spraying with water will discourage any hangers-on. Spraying weekly on both the tops and bottoms of the leaves will keep your plant moist beyond the mites' tolerance.

My indoor ivy plant has something growing all over it that looks brownish or rusty. It grows like a spider web under the leaves. Is there any type of spray for it?
Sounds like spider mites. You can see them with a good magnifying glass but the web you mentioned is the telltale sign. They usually appear on houseplants toward late winter, especially ivy and spider plants, and they thrive in a hot, dry environment. Spider mites suck the sap which results in mottled and rusty leaves, and if infestation is severe the leaves may drop off. However, they detest getting wet! Just spray your plant with your sink spray or under the shower, making sure you get under the leaves. You may have to mist them on a regular basis for complete control but chemicals are not needed at all.
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I just brought my asparagus fern and some other houseplants back inside for the winter. I don’t see any bugs on the plants buy the window where I hang my fern is covered with cobwebs that have very tiny black dots. Did this come from the plant?
It’s a good possibility you are looking at spider mites that did come in with the plant. These are often difficult to see unless there is webbing like you describe. Vacuum the entire window area and get rid of the bag contents outside in your trash. Then check the entire plant…all of them, actually…looking for little dots, especially under leaves and where stems join. You may want to give the plant a good shower in tepid water…spider mites hate water.
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Spider Plants
Why do my spider plants get brown tips on them all the time?
It could be from excess salts (from fertilizer) in the potting medium or toxic salts from the water. When fertilizer salts accumulate the excess travels to the leaves and stays in the tips. When the accumulation gets large enough, the tip dies. This occurs very quickly when the soil is dry.

Put your plants in the sink or bathtub, without the saucers, and water them from the top, letting the excess water drain out. Do this each time the plant needs water to flush out the salts. Cut back on plant food - once a month at half strength will do and don't let the plant get completely dry. If bad water is the problem, switch to bottled distilled water. In the meantime, snip off the brown tips with a pair of scissors.
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Starting Plants
What is the proper way to start new plants from my houseplants?
It depends on the plant. You can take cuttings from stems, roots or leaves - I'll explain stem and leaf propagation. These cuttings can be rooted in growing medium, sand, artificial soil mixes, or water.

Plants like Swedish ivy (Pothos) and spider plants are usually done by putting the stem cuttings in water. For other stem cuttings, cut off a 4 to 5 inch end of a healthy stem and remove all but the top leaves. (Make sure this cutting has lots of nodes, that is, the place where the leaf attaches to the stem). You may wish to dip this cutting into some rooting hormone prior to inserting it into the growing mix. Have your growing mix prepared prior to starting and then make a hole in it with a pencil, place the cutting in the hole, firm up the soil around the stem, water lightly. Cover the cutting and pot with a plastic bag and put it in a well-lit area until roots have formed. Geraniums and other soft cuttings do not benefit from being covered, in fact, they often rot before rooting. Cuttings do best when the soil is almost dry so don't water them until they are rooted.

African violets, some begonias, sedums, kalanchoes, and snake plants are usually propagated from leaf cuttings. Take a leaf with the petiole attached and insert it into a hole in your prepared growing mix. Water well and then cover. New plants will form at the base of the leaf. With the snake plant, each leaf can be cut into sections for rooting but mark the top so all sections are upright as on the original plant.

You really need to do some research to find the best propagation method for each plant.
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Sweet Potato Plant
I have a sweet potato plant growing from a sprouted tuber that was purchased in the fall. It is very lush and has vines about 4 feet long. Now it’s covered with ants. They are in the soil and on the pot but are not crawling along the stems. What should I do?.
The tuber is rotting and it is attracting ants. Remove the saucer and place the pot in the sink, making sure not to block the drain. Water the soil completely – the ants will run out from the bottom and climb up the sides of the pot. Use the sink hose spray to blast them off. Repeat this a few times until you don’t see any more ants. Let the plant drain completely before reattaching the saucer.  You can then use a safe spray or ant traps in the area where you keep this plant.
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Ti Plant
My Ti plant is beginning to look ragged. The leaves are turning brown and drying up?
The problem is the air is too dry. Ti plants (Cordyline fruticosa) can’t tolerate dry air at all. When the heating system kick in for winter, these plants start to suffer. Raise the humidity by placing the plant pot on a layer of pebbles in a deep saucer that can be kept full of water, or even use a humidifier close by. If the leaves are the red ones, give the plant a bit of brighter light to maintain their color. Also, be careful not to overwater the plant, this won’t help the humidity but instead may cause root problems. It is best to let the soil dry slightly before watering.
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Wax Plant
My sister and I both have a wax plant – each had a label attached to it – but they are very different. Are there different types of wax plants or was one mislabeled?
Look at the labels for the names Hoya carnosa, H. compacta and H. lanceolata. Wax plant varieties differ in leaf types and colors but all are known as Hoyas and all are vines, waxy foliage and fragrant fllowers. Carnosa is a rather straggly plant, similar to an old Pothos but with gorgeous honey-scented flowers.  Compacta is a very compact variety with small, somewhat curly leaves. Lanceolata has diamond-shaped leaves with pastel pink and white flowers.
Hoyas dislike being being overwatered. They will drop leaves when this happens so it is best to wait until the top half inch of soil is dry. All can be trained to climb or used in a topiary. They grow fast, prefer low humidity, and like average potting soil. And they don’t like being repotted once established.
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Zeezee Plant
I just bought something called a Zeze plant at a church sale but don’t know anything about it. Can you help me?
This is a relatively new plant…a tropical that is really tough. Zeezee (Zamioculcas zamiifolia; also know as aroid palm or arum fern) is a very easy plant to care for; is isn’t fussy about light, though direct sun will burn the leaves. You can neglect it and it will still reward you with the shiny foliage for which it is known. It needs temperatures above 40 degrees F but low humidity and it does great during winter months no mater where you place it. If the light is on the bright side, it does require moist soil but if in poor light, let it dry between watering. If the leaves turn yellow then it is getting too much water. Suckers will fill the pot but can be repotted easily.  If you put it outside during the summer months, place it in a shaded location.
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More Commonly Asked Questions:

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