Home Gardening with Vegetables

Success with the home vegetable garden depends on a variety of factors. Here are some of the essential elements for success. 1. A quality location is important, especially one with adequate sunlight. Vegetables need sun to grow and produce! While some vegetables will tolerate shading to a certain extent, they will still produce much better in full sun. 2. Good soil drainage is extremely important. For soils that are high in clay (which usually means poor drainage) or are (which adds to drainage problems) adding organic matter (peat, compost, etc.) and growing vegetables on raised beds are potential solutions. Raised beds work well in the backyard. 3. Another important factor relating to the soil is pH, a measure of how acidic or alkaline (basic) a soil is. The ideal pH for vegetable garden soils is 6.0 to 6.5.  Vegetable plants do not grow well in soils with pH of 4.5 – 5.5 or above 7.5. Acid soils result in poor plant growth because of poor root development. These plants may show signs of nutrient deficiencies. Most soils in Rhode Island tend to be acidic (pH values below 7.0); but you can't tell without a soil test. Once you know you're garden soil pH, sulfur can be used to lower pH and lime can be used to raise it. Only apply these if you know the pH value of your soil. Don't add limestone or sulfur on a routine basis without knowing the soil pH value! If needed, apply lime well ahead of planting (2 – 3 months). 4. A fourth factor is an adequate water supply for the entire season. Without sufficient water, especially in drought periods, vegetables will not yield very well and quality will be poor. Mulching will help conserve soil moisture. Vegetable pH Requirements pH 6.8 to 6.0 Asparagus Beets Broccoli Cauliflower Lettuce Muskmelon Okra Onions Spinach Swiss chard     pH 6.8 to 5.5 Beans Brussells sprouts Carrots Collards Corn Cucumbers Eggplant Garlic Kale Kohlrabi Lima beans Parsley Peppers Pumpkins Radishes Rutabagas Soybeans Squash Sunflowers Tomatoes Turnips  pH6.8 to 5.0pH Irish potatoes Sweet potatoes Watermelon top of page Organic Gardening Organic gardening means using organic and natural materials for fertilization and disease and insect control. Much of the interest in organic gardening is on reducing or eliminating use of chemical pesticides for controlling insects and diseases. There is less interest in the use of natural and organic fertilizers. Soils with a low pH (acid) can be corrected using limestone, ground oyster shells, wood ashes, or dolomitic limestone. Adding organic matter benefits soils with a high pH (alkaline). Animal manures, seaweed, bone meal, and fish emulson are the most widely used organic fertilizers. Most organic materials do not contain plant nutrients in balance with plant requirements and must be supplemented to correct these imbalances. For example, a well-leached animal manure has an estimated fertilizer ratio of 1-1-1, or 20 pounds each of N, P2O5, and K2O per ton. Besides being relatively low in nutrient content, the nutrients are available more slowly than nutrients from inorganic sources. This protects nutrients from leaching, but when a rapid change in nutrient level is needed, this can be a problem. Controlling diseases and insects by natural means alone is difficult. Therefore, organic gardening is easier on a small scale than on a large scale. To increase chances for success, organic gardeners should follow these practices: Plant disease- and nematode-resistant varieties. Use marigolds, solarization, and organic products to control plant parasitic nematodes. Plant seeds from disease-free plants. Plant only healthy vegetable transplants. Place a cardboard collar around plant stems at ground level to prevent cutworm damage. Incorporate plant residues and animal manures early to allow sufficient time for them to decompose before planting. Use mulches to control weeds and keep soil from splashing onto the plants and fruit. Use aluminum foil or silver-painted plastic mulches to repel aphids and thrips. Plant as early in the spring as possible to avoid some insect problems. Squash is an exception, which should be planted late to avoid the squash vine borer. Keep the garden free of weeds that may harbor diseases and insects. Hand-pick insects. Water during the day so plants are not wet at night. Remove diseased plants and plant parts from the garden. Control insects using biological controls and natural products. Rotate crops each year to different garden areas. Encourage natural insect predators. Trap slugs under boards and moist burlap laid on the ground, or use beer traps. Stay out of the garden when the plants are wet to prevent spreading diseases. Use fixed copper fungicides to control many fungus and bacterial leaf spots, anthracnose, and downy mildews. Do not use tobacco products while working in the garden. Mix different vegetables in a row to eliminate monocultures and the chance for a disease to spread rapidly. Source: MSU Cares, Mississippi State University Extension Service Soil The ideal vegetable garden soil is deep, loose, fertile, well-drained (internally as well as on the surface), has plenty of organic matter, and is free of weeds and diseases. Such soils are difficult to find, but with proper preparation and management, less-than-ideal soils can be productive. Structure: The soil affects the way vegetable plants grow and look. When soils are cold, wet, crusty, or cloddy, seedlings are slow to emerge and some may not survive. Root rot diseases may take a heavy toll on seedlings, especially beans. Other soil-related plant symptoms are short plants, slow growth, poor color, and shallow and malformed roots. Soil symptoms of poor structure are crusts, hard soil layers below the surface, standing water, and erosion. Drainage: Water moves quickly through an internally well-drained soil and never completely shuts off air movement. Drainage is important because roots cannot develop, live, and function without a constant supply of oxygen. Clay soils dry slowly after a rain because the spaces in them are small and water moves through them slowly. Sandy soils, on the other hand, have many spaces and dry out quickly. Amendments: Clay and sandy soils can be partially changed to substitute for a rich loam by adding organic matter. Increasing the organic matter content of a clay soil improves tilth, makes it easier to work, and improves internal drainage. Adding organic matter to a sandy soil increases its water-holding capacity and improves its fertility. Increase the soil’s organic matter content by adding manure, composted leaves, sawdust, bark, or peat moss; or by turning under plant residues like sweet corn stalks after harvest and green manure crops (soybeans, rye, southern pea plants, and others). Plant residues should be free of diseases if they are to be added to the garden soil. Fertility: Cover crops, such as clovers and vetch, planted in the fall prevent soil erosion and leaching of plant nutrients. They also provide organic matter and nitrogen when turned under in spring. Manures vary in their content of fertilizing nutrients. The amount of straw, age, exposure to the elements, and degree of composting change their composition. Be careful not to over-fertilize when applying chicken litter to garden soil. Use no more than 200 pounds per 1,000 square feet of garden space. Animal manure is lower in nutrient content than poultry manure and can be applied at the rate of 250 to 300 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Overuse of manures can add so much salt to the soil that plant growth is harmed. Most organic materials release some nutrients quickly and the rest over a period of time. Even though adding organic matter improves soil fertility, manures and plant residues are not balanced fertilizers, and soils require additional fertilizer. top of page Mulch A mulch is any material used to cover the surface of the garden soil to protect plant roots from heat, cold, or drought, to keep fruit clean, or to control weeds. Mulches help to make more attractive, higher yielding vegetable gardens. Mulch in the garden changes the environment where plants are growing, resulting in better plant growth and higher yields. If used improperly, mulch can lower yields or result in plant death. There are many types of mulching materials but they can be divided into two general categories: natural and synthetic. Natural mulches are materials such as straw, compost, composted bark, or pine needles. Synthetic mulches are plastics and papers. When deciding to use mulch, weigh the advantages against possible disadvantages, cost, and availability of a particular mulching material. Also, check the mulch before applying to avoid using “sour mulch.” Natural mulch: Natural mulches consist of organic plant or animal residue or by-products. They are generally spread over the ground surface around established plants or over the entire growing area in a layer 2 to 4 inches deep. Composted sawdust, bark, wood shavings, leaves, grass clippings, rice hulls, ground corncobs, and animal manures may also be used. Pine needles and hay are light and airy; therefore, a 4- to 5-inch deep layer is needed for them to be effective. Most natural mulches have some fertilizer value and are good soil conditioners when worked into the soil. They improve both the physical and chemical properties of soil. Organic improves water-holding capacity, nutrient availability, and aeration of the soil. Some mulching materials, such as pine needles, peat, and oak leaves are acidic and lower the soil pH. Regular soil testing indicates the amount of lime necessary to make any soil pH adjustment. Organic mulches are summer mulches, since most of their advantages are realized in hot weather. A summer mulch protects soil from compacting rains, foot traffic, drying winds, and heat. It also controls weeds by excluding light from germinating seeds and seedlings. Mulches prevent weed problems, thereby reducing competition for light, water, and nutrients. The resulting fewer cultivations mean less crop-damaging root pruning. By reducing the loss of soil moisture, mulches lessen the frequency of watering, and garden vegetables suffer less in dry periods. Organic mulches also increase the water absorption rate of soils. The reduced soil temperatures under organic mulches encourage root growth in the upper soil layer where there is more oxygen and fertilizer. Apply organic mulches to warm-season vegetables when the soil has warmed sufficiently for good plant growth and when plants are established and large enough that they won’t be covered. The soil should be weed-free, recently cultivated, and contain plenty of moisture. Mulching warm-season vegetables early in the growing season makes them susceptible to frost injury by preventing soil warming and by insulating plants from any warmth in the soil. Organic mulches are also beneficial when applied to cool-season vegetables like broccoli, cabbage, and English peas in midspring because they help to keep the soil from rapid warming and drying and can extend the growing season. Synthetic mulch: Plastic mulches are springtime mulches. They help warm the soil, permitting early planting; promote rapid growth; provide for early harvest; and provide weed control. Plastic mulches reduce loss of soil moisture and protect vegetable plant fruit and leaves from soil-borne diseases. Black plastic is the most commonly used synthetic mulch. It is widely available, relatively inexpensive, and comes in various widths and lengths. Use plastic with a thickness of 1½ mils (.0015 inches). Clear plastic warms soil more rapidly than black plastic, but weed seeds germinate under clear plastic, so it should not be used. Warm-season vegetables like cucumbers, melons, squash, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant grow better and produce more when grown on black plastic mulch than when grown on bare soil. Transplants can be set through plastic mulch by cutting holes with a sharpened bulb planter. Use the same tool to plant seeds of widely spaced vegetables like squash and melons. While frequently used with warm-season vegetables, plastic mulch can be used with cool-season vegetables like cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower to promote early growth. Plastic mulch is not used with vegetables that are closely spaced in the rows. Newspaper: Newspaper is an organic material, but as a manufactured product it may be thought of differently from other organic mulches. Newspaper makes a good mulch when you use a thickness of several sheets. Hold newspaper to the soil surface with soil, sticks, or coat hanger wires. Apply newspaper mulch after plants are established. Like other organic mulches, newspaper decomposes rapidly and adds organic matter to the soil. Source: MSU Cares, Mississippi State University Extension Service top of page Watering Vegetable gardens usually need about one inch of water (630 gallons per 1,000 square feet) per week in the form of rain or irrigation during the growing season. Gardens in sandy soil may need as much as 2 inches of water per week in midsummer. Mulches that slow soil surface evaporation can reduce the amount of water needed. Soaker hoses and drip or trickle irrigation systems wet only the soil in the root zone and can cut in half the amount of water used. Adequate soil moisture is important for seed germination, uniform growth, and productivity. The most critical periods for adequate moisture are during seed germination, early growth, flower and fruit development, root enlargement of root crops, and immediately following transplanting. When a water source is not close to the garden, there are efficient methods for watering that do not require a lot of work. For example, partially bury 1-gallon plastic milk jugs between tomato, pepper, eggplant, squash, and other widely spaced plants. Punch a few small holes near the bottoms of the jugs before placing them in the soil. Fill the jugs periodically with water hauled to the garden. The water will slowly seep into the soil, providing moisture to the root zone. Periodically place 1 to 2 tablespoons of fertilizer in the jugs to stimulate plant growth. Sprinklers: There are several choices of garden sprinklers, ranging from the simple garden hose with a spray nozzle to semi-automatic equipment. Many portable lawn sprinklers are adequate for the garden. Adjust the rate of water application so that it is not faster than it can enter the soil. Water applied too rapidly runs off, resulting in erosion or puddles and causing soil compaction. Place the sprinkler so plants do not interfere with the pattern of application. Small cans placed throughout the garden can be used to measure the amount of water applied and show the overlap necessary to approach an even application of water. Since overhead sprinklers wet plant leaves, water early enough in the day to allow time for leaves to dry before night. This helps keep leaf diseases from developing and spreading. Each watering should wet the top 3 to 5 inches of soil. Frequent light watering results in shallow rooting, susceptibility to damage by drought, and plants that are easily blown over. Soaker and Drip and Trickle Irrigation: Soaker or perforated plastic hoses are excellent for watering the garden. Place the hose with holes up along one side of the plants or underneath an organic or plastic mulch. A number of different drip and trickle irrigation systems are available through mail order catalogs, magazine ads, and local distributors. These systems usually consist of a supply line that connects to a garden hose and delivery tubes that are placed next to the plants. A 150-mesh filter is recommended to prevent clogging small pores and emitters. The systems operate at low pressure and deliver small amounts of water very slowly through pores in the delivery tubes or emitters punched into the delivery tubes. An irrigation system makes it possible to water a large garden all at the same time. You also are able to harvest, cultivate, spray, and do other garden chores while watering. The largest disadvantage of a drip system is the initial cost. Advantages of these irrigation systems include: reduced water use – one-half or more. water placement where it is needed, at the base of plants ability to permit working in the garden while watering. keeping plant leaves dry. Source: MSU Cares, Mississippi State University Extension Service top of page Weed Control Weeds are a serious garden problem. They rob vegetable plants of sunlight, water, and nutrients. They also provide hiding places for insects and serve as a source of vegetable diseases. It is important to control weeds while they are small and before they get out of control. Since any plant growing out of place can be considered a weed, a sweet corn plant (from a carelessly dropped seed) growing in a row of bush snap beans is technically a weed. But the most common garden weeds are crabgrass, yellow and purple nutsedge, Bermudagrass, oxallis, lambs quarters, purselane, and pigweed. Most weeds can be controlled; methods of control include hand pulling, cultivation, mulching, and chemicals. Hand pulling: Hand-pulling is an effective way to control weeds in a small garden. Hand-pull weeds that appear in the row with vegetable plants as well as those that grow in the planting holes of a plastic mulch. Weeds that grow between closely spaced rows of vegetables in wide rows or raised beds also may require hand pulling. Weeds growing in containers should be hand pulled. Extremely small weeds are difficult to pull by hand but do not wait until the weeds get so large that pulling them destroys adjacent vegetable plants. Thinning seedlings spaced too closely together and hand weeding frequently can be done at the same time. Cultivation: Cultivation is the most widely used method of garden weed control. It is not a one-time chore, for with each rain, irrigation, and stirring of the soil, weed seedlings emerge. A variety of hand and power equipment is used for cultivation, but the most commonly used tools are the hoe and garden tiller. A sharpened hoe blade is an excellent tool for cutting the roots of weeds. The severed plants dry in the sun and die. A garden tiller and other soil-disturbing tools, the hoe included, are used to disturb the soil around the weed plant’s roots. On a hot day, the weeds die when their roots dry and the plants are unable to get water. Small weeds die more quickly than large weeds, so cultivation should be frequent enough to prevent weed seedlings from becoming established. Cultivation should also be shallow so you do not disturb or injure vegetable plant roots. Take a perennial weed, such as Bermudagrass, out of the garden following cultivation because pieces of the plant that have no roots can form new roots and make the Bermudagrass problem worse. Mulching: Mulching is an effective way to control garden weeds. Natural and plastic mulches properly applied to weed-free garden soil prevent most weeds from becoming established. Bermudagrass and nutsedge are difficult to control completely with mulches. Weeds that appear in the planting holes of plastic mulch should be pulled by hand. Herbicides: Gardeners have a much smaller choice of herbicides than commercial vegetable growers do to prevent or control weed problems. Don’t expect to control all weeds in a garden of mixed vegetables with one herbicide. First, no single herbicide controls all weeds. Second, some vegetables are sensitive to the herbicide and if the wrong herbicide is used, the vegetable is injured along with the weeds. Finally, before using a herbicide in your garden, read the product label for a listing of vegetables it can be used on, the recommended rate of application, and the method of application. Never use a product that is not labeled for use on vegetables and do not exceed the recommended rate. Herbicides used in the garden may be in the form of granules, wettable powders, or liquids. The equipment needed for application depends on the formulation used. Use a pump-up pressure sprayer for applying liquids and wettable powders. Chemical herbicides used in the vegetable garden can be washed from the sprayer, but some of those used on the lawn cannot. Therefore, a wise gardener will keep two sprayers: one for lawn herbicides and the other for garden herbicides. When spraying herbicides approved for application over the tops of vegetable plants, do not use a sprayer that has been used with lawn herbicides. Source: MSU Cares, Mississippi State University Extension Service top of page Fall Gardening Fall gardening is the way to have fresh vegetables right into winter. Many fall gardens are carried over from summer gardens. Plan the fall garden at the same time you plan the spring and summer garden. Include your seed needs for fall when ordering seeds for the spring and summer garden. It helps to have the seeds on hand so you can plant them at the appropriate time. Suggested garden vegetables for fall include: bush snap beans, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chard, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, onions, radishes, rutabagas, spinach, and turnips. Many cool-weather vegetables normally planted in spring grow and produce better in the fall, since they mature as the weather cools. When wet weather causes a delay in planting early spring vegetables, a fall garden provides a second opportunity. Chinese cabbage (very sensitive to heat) and rutabagas (require a long period of cool weather) are two cool-weather vegetables recommended for planting only in the fall. Tomato plants, okra, peppers, and eggplant, if cared for during the summer, continue to produce until cold slows them down and frost kills them. Warm-season vegetables planted in midsummer for fall harvest require additional time to mature as the weather cools in September and October. Choose planting dates in midsummer that allow these vegetables to mature before frost. To keep these vegetables producing, control insects and diseases, keep the plants watered and fertilized, and don’t let the garden grow up in grass and weeds. A good fall garden, however, is not just keeping the summer garden alive. It means planting new vegetables to produce in fall and early winter. Suggested garden vegetables for fall include: bush snap beans, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chard, Chinese cabbage, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, onions, radishes, rutabagas, spinach, and turnips. Planting Seeds: The hot, dry weather in July, August, and September is hard on germinating seeds and young seedlings. Germination and seedling survival is improved if one of these methods is used: Water a day or two before planting so seeds are planted in moist soil. Watering after planting can cause the soil surface to pack and crust. Plant seeds in moist soil and cover with moistened, non-crusting materials: a mix of peat moss and vermiculite or composted sawdust and sand. Keep the surface moist during germination and seedling establishment. Plant three to five seeds of the small-seeded vegetables like broccoli and cabbage at the recommended final plant spacing in the garden row. Once the seedlings are established, thin the seedlings to one plant at each location. Transplants: Start vegetable transplants for the fall garden in individual containers, such as peat pots, small clay or plastic pots, or peat pellets. Setting out plants without disturbing the root systems reduces transplant shock. Protect young plants from the sun for a few days. You can use bare-root transplants from thinning the seedling row, but be prepared to provide water and shade until they become established. A fall garden is open to attack by insects and diseases just as the summer garden. In some cases, the insect problems are worse. Worms (cabbage loopers and imported cabbage moths) are serious problems on fall cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, and collards. Control these leaf-eating worms with one of the biological sprays. Squash bugs are troublesome on fall squash and pumpkins. Fall vegetables need fertilizer. Don’t count on the fertilizer applied in spring to supply fertilizer needs of vegetables planted in late summer and fall. Fertilize before planting and side-dress as needed. As the danger of frost approaches, protect tender plants and they will continue to produce for several weeks. Harvest tender vegetables when a killing frost is inevitable. Green tomatoes that are turning white just before turning pink will ripen if stored in a cool place. Pick these tomatoes, wrap them in paper, and use them as they ripen. Don’t abandon the garden when freezing temperatures kill the plants. Clean up the debris, store stakes and poles, take a soil test, and row up part of the garden to be ready for planting early spring Irish potatoes and English peas. top of page HARVESTING Harvesting at the right time is essential to obtain quality: if you pick vegetables too soon, they can be tough or too tender, lacking substance and flavor; if you pick them too late, they may be tough, fibrous, or too soft. The number of days from planting to maturity is generally listed in catalog descriptions. For vegetables commonly started with transplants, such as tomatoes and peppers, the number of days given is from setting plants in the garden to harvest. For vegetables that are typically direct-seeded in the garden, such as peas and sweet corn, the number represents the days from planting the seed. The number of days given represents an average and varies with weather and variety. Cool-season vegetables mature more rapidly as weather warms in late spring; warm-season vegetables mature more slowly as weather cools in fall. Early varieties mature more rapidly than mid- and late-season varieties. Use the number of days as a guide, but also consider the weather, the variety description of early, midseason, or late, and the appearance of the vegetables. Keep these points in mind when harvesting vegetables: Harvest at the proper stage of maturity, not before. You can harvest most vegetables several times if you harvest only the part that is ready. Harvest on time. Harvest when the foliage is dry; tramping through wet foliage spreads diseases. Don’t damage foliage by stepping on vines or breaking stems as this creates wounds and entrances for diseases. Don’t harvest when plants are wilted because wounds made by harvesting permit water loss, which increases water stress inside the plant. Immediately move freshly harvested vegetables into the shade and keep them cool. Use freshly harvested vegetables as soon after harvest as possible. Don’t injure the plant during harvest. Gently remove the part to be harvested from the plant. Cut eggplants and watermelons with a knife. top of page Specific Vegetables Asparagus: Cut or snap spears when they are 6 to 8 inches tall and before leaf bracts at the tips begin to open. Harvest spears of large and small diameter, but leave 20 to 50 percent of the spears to grow to provide energy for next year’s crop. Beans, snap: Best when pods are crisp and snap easily but when tips are still pliable; 50 days for bush, 65 days for pole. Beans, lima: Pick when pods are well-filled but still bright green and fresh. The end of the pod should feel spongy when squeezed; 65 days for bush, 80 days for pole. Beets: Pull when medium-sized (1 ¼  to 2 inches in diameter); 60 to 70 days; leafy tops are an excellent cooked green. Broccoli: Heads should be compact with tight buds; individual bud and head size determined by variety; 65 to 75 days from transplants. Yellow flowers indicate overmaturity. Brussels sprouts: Cut sprouts from the stalk when they are 1 to 2 inches in diameter and firm; 90 days from transplants. Lower sprouts develop first. Remove the leaf when cutting the sprout. Cabbage: Cut when head is firm and before splitting; 80 days from transplants. Carrots: Harvest according to desired size and weather. Sugar content is higher in mature roots, but younger ones are more tender; 75 days. Cauliflower: Cut when head is firm and smooth, should not be coming apart or ricey in appearance; 65 days from transplants. Pure white color depends on blanching; creamy color is fine. Chinese cabbage: Cut entire plant at the ground line when the head is fairly compact or the plant has reached the desired size; 80 days. Collards: As soon as leaves are large enough to pick; 55 days. Large, old leaves are tough and fibrous. Corn, sweet: From 17 to 21 days after silking; 70 to 85 days. Harvest when silks turn dark and begin to shrivel. Kernels should be bright, plump, and milky, except super sweets, which may appear watery. Small, soft kernels and large, hard, starchy kernels are tasteless. Cucumbers, pickling: Pick when 2 inches or less in length for pickles and 4 to 6 inches for dills; 55 days. Use large cucumbers for relish. Harvest before cucumbers become dull, puffy, or yellow. Frequent harvest is necessary. Cucumbers, slicing: Harvest when 6 to 8 inches long and before the ends become soft or begin to turn yellow; 62 days. Cucumbers, burpless and European types: Harvest when 8 to 10 inches long and 1 to 1 ½  inches in diameter. Eggplant: Ready when fruit is half grown, before color dulls; 65 to 85 days from transplants. Endive, escarole: Cut plants at ground level when large enough to eat; 85 days. Horseradish: Dig roots in late fall after frost. Where soil doesn’t freeze and is well drained, roots can be left in the ground until needed. Kale: Cut entire plant or larger leaves while still tender; 55 days. Old kale is tough and stringy. Cold weather improves flavor. Kohlrabi: Pull when swollen stem is the size of a baseball; 55 days. Large, old kohlrabi is woody and tasteless. Lettuce, leaf: When leaves are large enough to harvest; 40 to 50 days. Lettuce, head: Harvest for leaves as needed before heads form or as soon as heads are firm; 80 days. Onions, green: When 1/4 to 1/2 inch in diameter and tops are 12 to 16 inches tall. Onions, bulb: Dig when tops have yellowed and fallen over. Parsley: When leaves are large enough to pick; 90 days. Peas, English: Best when pods are bright green and fairly well filled; 65 days. Raw peas should be sweet. Peas, snap: Best when pods are green, crisp, and peas have filled pods; 65 days. Peppers: Pick green bell peppers when shiny green and firm; 75 days from transplants. Colored peppers (yellow, red, etc.) are harvested when fully colored, Pimiento should be fully red. Potatoes, Irish: As soon as large enough for early potatoes; 100 days. Harvest main crop after vines have yellowed. Greenish or sunburned potatoes are not good. Skin should be firmly attached to tuber. Pumpkins: When fully colored, hard rind, and heavy; 110 days. Radishes: Pull as soon as large enough; 28 days. Rhubarb: Pull leaf stalks from plants when leaves are fully grown. Discard leaf blade and eat the stalk only. Rutabagas: Dig any time large enough; 90 days. Becomes dry and woody if soil moisture is insufficient. Spinach: Use before leaves get old and tough; 45 days. Squash, summer: When medium in size, color good, and rind easily dented with fingernail. Zucchini when 6 to 10 inches long and shiny; 55 days from planting. Squash, winter (storage): Color should be good for the variety and the rind very hard; 90 days. Swiss chard: As soon as large enough to pick off leaves, from about 12 inches up; 50 days. Old leaves are tough and fibrous. Tomatoes: When color is good all over. Size is no indication of maturity. Will ripen off the plant, but quality is better when ripened on the plant. Reduce bird damage by picking before fully colored; 70 days from transplants. Turnip greens: When large enough to pick. Tough, fibrous, and bitter when old. Turnip roots: Best when of medium size and firm; 60 days. Large turnips tough and strongly flavored. top of page STORAGE In addition to canning, freezing, and drying fresh vegetables, many can be stored to use later. The length of successful storage depends on the vegetable and storage conditions. Loss of moisture is the major factor that reduces quality during storage. Reducing the temperature slows this loss and delays growth of bacteria and fungi that cause vegetables to spoil. Some vegetables, such as winter squash, onions, Irish potatoes, and pumpkins, lose moisture slowly; others, such as leafy greens, lose moisture rapidly. Place lettuce, mustard greens, spinach, collards, turnip greens, beets, carrots, radishes, snap beans, shelled limas, cucumbers, broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi, and green onions in a plastic bag or container before refrigerating to prevent rapid loss of water. Turnip roots not only lose moisture rapidly but have a strong odor, so be sure to bag them. For short-term refrigerated storage, wash vegetables to remove insects, soil, and spray residue before refrigerating. Some vegetables can be stored for several weeks or longer without refrigeration under proper conditions. When you grow root crops such as beets, carrots, turnips, and rutabagas in the fall they can be left in the garden until they are needed if the garden site is well drained and the vegetables are protected from freezing. Pull soil up over roots or cover them with straw. Store harvested roots in plastic bags in the refrigerator or in moist sand in a cool location. Specific Vegetables Cabbage: Protect fall-grown cabbage from freezing. Pull mature heads and wrap leaves over the head. Set the heads, roots up, in a well-drained, cool place, and cover with soil or straw. Pull mature heads with roots attached and place them in a cold frame. Onions: After bulbs are harvested and dried, trim tops, leaving about one-half inch. For best storage keep dry bulbs in a cool, well-ventilated place. If the temperature is too warm, tops will sprout. If humidity is too high, the roots begin to swell and develop. Irish potatoes: Spring-grown Irish potatoes are difficult to store. Cure potatoes for several days in a warm place to heal cuts and bruises. Do not wash potatoes unless they are very dirty from harvesting in wet soil. Store dry potatoes in boxes in a closet in an air-conditioned home. If the house is on a conventional foundation, store potatoes under the house. Be sure to shut out all light to prevent greening of the stored potatoes. Sweet potatoes: Sweet potatoes are very sensitive to cold soils and cold storage. Potatoes that are chilled in the soil or in storage will not keep very long. Dig potatoes before soil temperatures drop to 55º F. Cure potatoes for 7 to 10 days in a warm, moist place at 80 to 85º F and 90 percent relative humidity. Curing helps heal all cuts and bruises that occurred during harvest. Store cured potatoes at 55º F and high humidity to prevent shrinkage. Storage at warmer temperatures encourages sprouting. Pumpkins, winter squash: Harvest these vegetables as they mature because they do not store well in the garden. If left exposed to the sun and wet weather, they rot. Store in a cool, fairly dry place. Small quantities can be stored in an air-conditioned home. Do not stack these vegetables in storage and do not expose them to temperatures below 50º F. If the humidity is too high, molds and rots develop. Tomatoes: Ripe tomatoes store best at a temperature around 60 ºF. At refrigerator temperatures, the quality rapidly deteriorates. Mature green tomatoes (those that have reached full size and are turning white before coloring) will ripen if picked before frost injures them. Wrap tomatoes in paper and store in a cool place. Check them regularly to remove any ripening or spoiled tomatoes. You can have garden tomatoes for Christmas and even later if you strip the vines of fruit before a freeze and handle them as described. Peas: The greatest danger in storage is infestation by insects. Pick dry pods and thoroughly dry them in a warm, well-ventilated place before shelling. Kill insects by heating dry, shelled peas in a 180º F oven for 15 minutes. Store these treated peas in plastic bags in containers with tight-fitting lids. If freezer space is available, you can store dried peas in the freezer without prior heating. Seed Storage: Cool and Dry Moisture and high temperatures cause rapid loss in the ability of vegetable seeds to germinate. Therefore, discard vegetable seeds held in storage buildings, vehicles, and other places with widely fluctuating temperatures and humidities. The longer seeds are stored, the more important it is to control moisture and temperature conditions. Low moisture content in the seeds means longer life, especially if seeds must be kept at warm temperatures. Seeds can be stored over, but not touching, calcium chloride, dried silica gel, or freshly opened powdered milk by sealing them in air-tight containers. Bean and okra seeds can be overdried, resulting in hard seed coats and reduced germination. Seeds can be stored successfully at temperatures above 32º F. Between 40 and 50º F is satisfactory when moisture content of the seed is not too high. For long-term storage (several months) seeds can be stored in the freezer. Seeds are not harmed if properly dried before storing, but be sure to let them come to room temperature before handling. Do not store chemically treated seeds with vegetables or other food items that are to be eaten. Source: MSU Cares, Mississippi State University Extension Service top of page

RHODE ISLAND VEGETABLE PLANTING CALENDAR Vegetable Subjects           Diseases           Fall gardening           Harvesting and Storage           Herbs           Organic gardening           Soil and Mulch           Watering           Weed control